After two years of no surf…

Nothing cleanse like sea water, you can also shout all your frustrations while rolling and tumbling after a major wipeout. Tears will flow and it will not sting your eyes. Burnt skin is a reminder you were there. Where the ocean meets that big hump of sand and formed the big waves. I rode a couple but only on a single knee. I will stand soon after 2 years of no surf, it was still a very good day. I left the secret place with renewed spirit, I can and I will be able to stand up again, I just need to take out some excess baggage. Riding now is a lot easier, I was not out of breath I can easily go back to the line-up. Paddling was enjoyable not like before it was a burden. Waves come it set much like our problems. Either we ride it, hop on it, or tumble and fall and let it pass us by. #secret_sesh #2yrs_no_surf #still_a_great_day #iliveforstoke